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First Rule: Fix the end on the car that has the problem. If it's the back part sliding around don't move adjusting the front. Start accompanied by adjusting the backwards end to make stable it first. You can then move up or down inside unison to set or soften the car.
Tires including Temperature
Getting the correct temperature/pressure mixture is similar to fitting together a great puzzle. Stiffer spring = additional temperature including stiffer wheel bars = higher temperature including on including on. It the whole amount fits together including the tires are the one object we own direct power of. It's frequently the most overlooked share on tuning yet it is the most important.
I'll use the recommendations that I own gathered from Pirelli intended temperature as some manufacturers differ +/- 10° F. The optimal hold intended a drain will differ by what compound you put onto the vehicle. The softer the drain the lower the temperature needed intended optimal grip.
PSI needs to be 32-35 degrees when hot. I generally settle accompanied by 33.
Temperature variety can be from 180° to 210° F. A softer drain will be defeated hold additional fast on one occasion it gets past 210° than a harder compound.
How does drain temperature tell to pressures?
Higher crushing = Lower temperature
Lower crushing = Higher temperature
This factory inside small amounts. On FWD cars inside the sport you can own a really towering PSI inside the back part including it will slide the whole amount over the place.
Adjustments Decrease Understeer Decrease Oversteer
Front Tire Pressure Higher Lower
Rear Tire Pressure Lower Higher
Quote:
Uniform rules no thing what Give the tires 3 laps to warm up ahead of looking at telemetry. You should not once own additional than 20° between the internal bit on the drain including the outer accompanied by the inside always being hotter. You should not once own additional than 25° between the head including back part on the car
Alignment:
Quote:
Keep inside mind you want no additional than 20° dissimilarity between the inside including outside on the drain accompanied by the internal 1/3 always being hotter (10°-15° are excellent numbers). Make sure you look when actual load is on the tires going by way of a joint including the tires own had proper while to warm (up) up (3 laps minimum). Sometimes on a track accompanied by turns mainly loading only margin on the car the tires will warm (up) up uneven. This is normal.
Camber
You always want invalidating camber
Negative = More inside
Positive = More outside
There is a sugary stain inside this setting that normally doesn't change unless you move the Caster around as well greatly on one occasion the whole is set. You also always want additional camber inside the head than the rear. Rear camber isn't as necessary as those tires don't turn including I want them accompanied by a feel on invalidating camber when choke is applied on exit.
Toe
Front toe favors a confident number (more responsive including to a greater degree turn in) between .1° including .5°. Anything above .3° will source excessive drag inside the straights including gets really damaging above 160mph.
Rear toe favors a invalidating number including becomes additional responsive by way of turns at 1°. However NEhng over 2° including the backwards end loses a lot on strength inside hastening including braking. On uneven marks a scrap of amount on back part toe will source the car to be defeated strength including you will own to cause corrections even inside a straight line costing you time.
EDIT: To clarify you shouldn't use additional than .3 degrees inside either way unless the circumstance is extreme.
Caster
Allows the tires to wheel accompanied by the frame giving a larger contact patch by way of a turn. It also helps to stabilize the temperature on the tires on marks accompanied by predominant left/right turns.
A larger number in or at this place will also back drink in bumps on the track while time as|during the time that} decreasing strength as as well greatly caster causes the tires to wander a bit.
I for yourself similar to a really towering Caster (5.5-7.0) inside the lower classes but on marks accompanied by longer extensive turns less caster is better.. Most cars aren't thoughtful to caster changes.
Adjustments Decrease Understeer Decrease Oversteer
Front Wheel Camber More Negative More Positive
Rear Wheel Camber More Positive More Negative
Front Wheel Caster More Positive More Negative
Anti Roll Bars
Anti wheel bars power how greatly margin to margin wheel a car has. In theory you would want to minimize build wheel as greatly as possible. This is largely true inside the higher classes but on occasion inside FM3 some build wheel helped things. I guess we will see inside FM4. The end on this only is long panting but helps to comprehend it all.
Rear ARB soften = decrease oversteer or increase understeer
Rear ARB set = decrease understeer or increase oversteer
Understanding what the ARB's do
"Limiting the lean on the build is excellent since it means that when you take a fast place into a turn, that the build isn't still emotional sideways after the tires are at their limits. Otherwise you turn inside quickly, the tires grip, then the build at last finishes leaning, when it stops, the tires be defeated grip."
"It limits camber changes. The camber unswervingly impacts the angle at which the drain cross section meets the road including so controls lateral grip. As the suspension compresses the camber angle generally changes connection to the chassis. With a usual McPherson parade that hasn't been lowered, the camber goes from confident to additional invalidating as the lower A arm swings not in straight, including then backwards to confident as it swings up. That brandish up into confident camber is BAD. At that point the frame is already leaned over thus the drain may be starting to wheel onto its sidewall. Changing the camber even additional confident is lately nasty. A great sway pub will stop the build wheel inside the first place, including stop the suspension pressing on the outside which causes the confident camber change connection to the chassis."
"Here's where it gets really tricky: If decreasing the extent on the back part pub doesn't back enough, the next object you perform is increase the extent on the head bar. When the outside head compresses inside a corner, it causes the inside head to compress including may really lift that drain completely off the ground. The car is now sitting on 3 tires including guess where the heaviness that was on the inside head goes? Outside front? Some on it. The rest goes to the inside back part where we need additional grip. The sum heaviness on the car hasn't changed. It's lately been redistributed, including a move from margin to side pub at only end, really transferred heaviness to the other end on the car. Increasing the head pub then translates into additional motive hold at the rear, including so additional acceleration"
Springs & Ride Height
From expressive accompanied by Dan the spring tuning including adjustments own changed drastically from FM3 to FM4. Every car is now dissimilar based upon what it is inside fact as against to lately only collective suspension being stuck beneath each and every machine similar to Forza titles inside the past. (his direct words were not the whole amount suspensions are the identical including the identical springs weights don't perform the identical object on each and every one car)
Any change inside the spring rate will change the control stature due to the rate on spring deflection. They also change the compression(bump) including deflection(rebound) ratings on the shocks.
I similar to using my springs to power the suspension travel including stabilize the heaviness on the vehicle. Aero also affects the heaviness on the car including needs to be decorated in. Some marks require a softer spring while time as|during the time that} others require stiffer. I own went out from using the under method but will depart from it in or at this place as a baseline since some similar to it. I lately cut the stock spring setting by regarding a 1/4 on head including back part intended my base tune.
Ride Height
Keep this as little as viable without the car bottoming out
Damping (shocks)
The extension when the drain is unloaded (force backwards out) = REBOUND
The pressing on a blow (making it smaller) = BUMP
Braking
Under braking the head shaft will compress while time as|during the time that} the back part will rebound. As the heaviness shifts the head shaft will own a higher pace than the back part which is excellent since the head should settle ahead of the rear. If the head does settle as well quickly the tires inside the head will fasten a little untimely including the identical intended the rear. Brake bias one masks the difficulty including moves it to a dissimilar bit on the track.
Acceleration
Under hastening the back part shaft will compress while time as|during the time that} the head will rebound (think on a see-saw). On a RWD intended instance provided the back part squats ahead of the torque reaches high point it reduces the while the pilot has to plume the choke as the tires begin to break loose. Try to stabilize the pressing on the required hold on the torque. FRONT REBOUND SHOULD BE FASTER THAN REAR COMPRESSION.
FWD is dissimilar inside a sense. For hastening increasing the head rebound will give additional hold initially while time as|during the time that} increasing back part rebound increases a sustained standard on grip.
Downforce including Braking
Downforce
More at back part = additional understeer including a stable backwards end
More at head = additional oversteer including increased turn in.
More downforce = less rate inside straights, additional rate by way of cornering.
Don't not remember that a scrap of downforce adjustment = a spring adjustment to recompense intended the more weight. Especially at higher speeds.
Braking
Braking crushing is a liking on the pilot inside my experience.
Your control bias controls understeer including oversteer while time as|during the time that} braking.
More head bias = additional understeer including can bind the head tires up to where you can't track control provided you like better to.
More back part bias = additional oversteer including can source the back part tires to fasten up faster than the head which is really bad. Will source the car to spin. This can also be a liking as some similar to to move early inside flying not in including some find it easier to control later including track control by way of the corner. Those two can create a stocked flake argument.
Easier reason on braking can be establish HERE courtesy on gtFOOTw. Have a look. http://forums.forzamotorsport.n...PLAINED.aspx#post_126446
Differential Settings
Differential settings increase the amount on fasten your inside disc has while time as|during the time that} turning. At 100% both the tires turn at the identical rate which on a back part distinctive creates oversteer (on FWD it eliminates torque steer). A higher distinctive will permit you to use the choke to back turn around a joint but can source mid-exit oversteer.
On deceleration when you lift off on the choke only drain locks faster than the other. This can source the backwards end to want to kick not in over the locked drain inside high settings (under 15%). A lower setting does back things including the more apart the accel including decel are on the identical distinctive the additional volatile the car seems to become inside my experience.
There isn't a ton I can find on distinctive settings thus sorry intended being thus fast in or at this place including it is appealing simple. A higher number creates oversteer including a lower number prevents it.
Edited by user Wednesday, June 11, 2014 3:59:43 PM(UTC) | Reason: additions
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